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Sunday, March 18, 2007

Howling At The Moon ~ Sharwa Farms

Like, this is the barn. There are peafowl sitting on top,
but the photo turned out too dark to see them. Shoot!

Carol's horses.


Tobacco drying barn. This one was my favorite.



Carol & Min
Our faces look red, but it may have been from the heat of the fire
cuz we were both rather nicely tanned.



The Pisco: A Peruvian Product


The pisco is a genuinely Peruvian drink, result of the adaptation of the stump brought by the Spaniards to those conquered lands, this on top of the knowledge in the cultivation gave to the recently developed liquor very Peculiar characteristics..

The name of the Pisco.
Pisco is a word coming from the Quechua that means bird and it figures in the religious columnists arrived with the first conquerors. This way Lion Cieza in its general chronicle of Peru in 1550 wrote Pisco, is name of birds, the word pisco also forms part of a great number of towns districts and Peruvian villages, as Piscohuasi (house of birds) in Ancash, Piscotuna (fruit of birds) in Ayacucho, Piscopampa (panpas of birds in Arequipa), Piscobanba (plain of birds) in Arequipa among others. In the same way in the Quechua language, Pisco us present in alst names with Peruvian origins as Pisconte, Piscoya, Piscocolla, etc.

According to Fernando Lecaros, he describes that when the Spaniards sown in a vast extension of vineyards they used many Indians in the production of small tinajas that were good to conserve, sell and to transport the grape liquors recently produced, that liquor was named Pisco.

The Pisco has an unquestionably Peruvian origin just as the lexicographers, columnists and historians have verified trough the studies they carried out. It is a prehispanic word (Quechua) that means bird or fowl )Aroma Juan, alias of Pedro Paz Soldan and Unanue. Dictionary of Peruvianisms, volume II, peisa edition, 1975, it page 323).

They were in fact the Incas who admired by the enormous quantity and diversity of birds that they could observe along this coast (located approximately to 200 km south Lima, used the word Quechua Pisko to named that valley which was the same were the famous Paracas culture developed.

In the same region a community of Indians called piskos existed, which were excellent ceramists and who produced earthen round short necked jugs (called Pisco by local people) with an interior coating of beewax used store alcoholic beverages and liquors, subsequently when the Spaniards brought the grapes to stored the liquor they produced naming it by the name of the jugs.

Daikiri de Pisco


Ingredients: 2 oz. of Pisco, �� slice of canned peach, �� oz.of lemon juice, 1 cup of crushed ice
Method: Shaken in cocktail shaker
Glass: Medium sized cognac glass
Garnishment: A strawberry and 2 straws.
Other forms: This can also be prepared with mango, lemon or strawberry.

Machu Micchu


Ingredients: 3 or 5 ice cubes, 2 oz. Pisco, 1/2 oz. green mint, 4 oz orange juice, �� oz. granadine syrup
Method: Direct
Glass: Flute
Garnishment: Slice of orange and 2 straws.

Pisco Sunrise



Ingredients: 3 or 4 ice cubs, 2 oz. Pisco, 5 oz. of orange juice, �� oz. granadine syrup

Method: Direct

Glass: Long Drink

Garnishment: �� a slice of orange in the glass and 2 straws.

Pisco Sour


Ingredients: 3 or 4 ice cubes, 2 oz. Pisco, �� oz. of sugar, syrup, �� oz. of lemon juice, 1 egg white
Method: Shaken in cocktail shaker
Glass: Cocktail Glass
Garnishment: 2 to 4 drops of Bitter
Note: If one wishes a dryer Pisco Sour, you can prepare the combination with 1/2 oz of lemon juice or 1/4 oz of gum syrup.

Pisco: Related Links

Pisco Mall
http://www.piscomall.com/

Pisco Montesierpe
http://www.piscomontesierpe.us/

Bodega Poblete
http://www.bodegapoblete.com/

Peruvian Pisco "Montesierpe" and Peruvian Pisco "Gold of the Inca"
http://barrioperu.terra.com.pe/bodegastotomas/ingles/a_ingles.html

Tacama
http://www.tacama.com/english/portada.htm

Pisco Vargas
http://www.vinavieja.com/home2.html

Saturday, March 17, 2007

Mix Masters Hit Incaland



Excerpt from the Food Arts magazine January/February 2007 issue.



Mix Masters Hit Incaland Bar Biz A South American Sojourn, A Native Spirit, And An International Competition Stir The Creative Souls Of Cocktail Pros. Jeffery Lindenmuth Reports.


Gathered at a hacienda in the agrarian Ica Valley of Peru, a dozen leading bartenders from the United States are swaying to the Afro rhythms of men and boys making music on wooden fruit crates. A few of the equine inclined take the reins of the proud Peruvian Paso horses, natural prancers that maintain the rider's gaze even with the horizon, better to survey the workers in the surrounding vineyards and fields.
All the while, the percussionists punctuate their beat with cries of "agua!" It's not water they invoke, but another great Peruvian tradition; Pisco. Pisco is little known in the United States, at least in our lifetime, but inspired by infamous early 20th century cocktails like Pisco Punch and the Pisco Sour, these bartenders have traveled here to learn about the traditional white brandy, which still survives unchanged in the surrounding communities.

There are 250 recognized producers, but literally thousands of small sites, like El Catador Distillery, Ica, where four families make pisco using a shared traditional falca, a low profile still that combines the Inca tradition of copper pot making with European alambic technology. Here, grapes are still crushed by stomping workers, often working through the night to avoid the bees drawn to the sweet grape juice, fueled by chinguerito, a punch of grape juice, pisco, lime juice, and cinnamon, with 9 percent alcohol. Without pumps, the pisco is stored and transported by sheer muscle in massive clay pitchers, or botijas, many centuries old.Many of these methods are still employed, even by the larger producers, like Bodega San Isidro, which offers the premium brands BarSol and Mendiola in the U.S. market and uses a copper pot still that dates to the 1800's.

The distillery was revived by Carlos Ferreyros, who sees huge potential for the growth of pisco in the U.S. market, which currently consumes a mere 15,000 cases annually. "The Pisco Sour is our national drink," says Ferreyros. To prepare it by the batch, he blends three parts pisco to one part dry sugar. Next, he adds one part lime juice and stores the mixture in the freezer. "You can then take this and either blend it or shake it with egg white and ice. I like to add bitters on the top. They are traditional and have a wonderful smell and dramatic flavor," say Ferreyros. (He uses Amargo Chuncho, but Angostura bitters are a suitable substitute.)

There is far more than meets the eye to this peasant spirit, and even the smallest producers follow the letter of the law in maintaining quality. At Instituto del Vino y del Pisco at the Universidad de San Martin de Porres n Lima, Mario Vingerhoets, marketing director, leads the bartenders through the point of differentiation between Peruvian and Chilean pisco, such as the popular Capel. The most significant differences lie in Chilean pisco being made in a column still, like that used for vodka, then aged in oak barrels, whereas Peruvian pisco is made in a single batch process, like Cognac, and rested without the use of oak. In Peru, eight varieties of approved grapes can be used, yielding both pisco puro, the equivalent of varietal wines, or acholado, more like a house blend.

Julie Reiner, mixologist and co-owner of Flatiron Lounge and co-owner of Pegu Club in Manhattan, returned to her post with a new appreciation of pisco following the seminar and blind tasting which included Peruvian pisco made from the eight approved grape varieties, both aromatic and nonromantic."We've been doing Pisco Sours since we opened, and I was using Capel, from Chile." says Reiner. "It was really inexpensive, and there was no one here doing pisco education. Capel is easier to work with, but it doesn't have as much flavor. With the Peruvian pisco, it's more obvious that it's a grape spirit, with the aromas of brandy."Reiner also introduced the "Flight to Peru" to salute her pilgrimage. The flight of three drinks includes a classic Pisco Sour, a Pisco Negroni (which she discovered in the nightclubs of Lima), plus an original creation called the Cuzco, where she combines BarSol Pisco, made with the aromatic Italia grape, with Aperol, fresh lemon and grapefruit juices, and a splash of simple syrup, and serves it up in a Kirschwasser-rinsed glass.Reiner reports that the flight has proved both popular and puzzling even for her cocktail savvy crowd: "I'm surprised at how many people say, 'What's pisco?'

"It's where Tequila was in the 60's, almost unknown."Diego Loret de Mola, president of Stamford, Connecticut based BevMax International, a spirits consulting company, and native of Peru, says that the bartenders he gathered for this trip are the key to pisco's future in the United States. "I believe that bartenders are the people who will use this to make a difference, for themselves and also for the consumer. These bartenders are creators, artists just like chefs, and they are excited to find a product that's mixable and has its own character," says Loret de Mola. "We want to have more establishments confident about using it and talking about it.

"Several of the visiting bartenders also took time to attend the 10th annual Pan-American Cocktail Competition, held in Lima, with Gaston Martinez of Las Vegas' Nora's Cuisine representing the United States Bartenders' Guild (USBG) in the classic mixology competition.

Thanks to the sponsorship of BarSol, Las Vegas bartenders are at the forefront of nuevo pisco cocktails. "I've had a lot of success with yuzu and acholado, which is a pisco blend using many of the aromatic pisco grapes," says Martinez. "The citrus of yuzu goes really well with it."The USBG was started in Southern California in 1948 and has renewed interest in competitive bartending with the launch of a Las Vega chapter in 2001, according to national vice president Ray Srp, who mixes at Bellagio's elite Club Prive'. "The original guild was really a men's club where they got together, had drinks, and played cards. Where we've taken it, there is more competition involved and we offer a way to market new products," explains Srp, who created the Sideways Sour, a long drink combining 2 ounces pisco, 3/4 ounce Cointreau, 1 1/2 ounces white grape juice, 1 1/2 ounces fresh lemon juice, and 3/4 ounce Pinot Noir. While local chapters are hosting more frequent competitions, there are three big league mix offs to look forward to in 2007, according to Srp: the World Cocktail Competition in Taiwan, the Pan American Cocktail Competition in Venezuela, and the 42nd annual Bacardi Martini Grand Prix, held annually in Italy.Granted the national cocktail status of the Pisco Sour, the drink was likely invented in California by American barman Victor Morris, then exported back to Lima with is opening of Morris Bar.

With the renewed national pride regarding pisco, Lima bartenders like Hans Hillburg of Astrid & Gaston are excited about creating wholly original Peruvian drinks. "These are now the first actual Peruvian creations," say Hillburg of his list of two dozen cocktails. Hillburg likes to work with local produce, like hot peppers an and beets, simmering them in citrus juices to add color and flavor to his cocktails.The Camu Camu Sour is made with pisco Torontel and camu camu fruit, with flavors reminiscent of strawberry, black cherry, and rhubarb, with a bitter finish. His Carajo! cocktail is a dark purple, almost opaque, drink of pisco acholado, lime juice, and sauco, Peruvian elderberries, with their rich cassis flavor, served up with a single floating chunk of ice and fresh berry garnish. He even makes a sour that includes a maceration of notorious coca leaves.According to Loret de Mola, The Cheesecake Factory has just agreed to add their own version of the Pisco Sour, using pineapple, to their cocktail list., and as the fervor for Latin food and culture continues, he things bartenders are well positioned to capitalize on this upcoming spirit, with the Pisco Sour perhaps poised to be the Margarita of Peru. "No formula can be much simpler than 2:1:1, the classic Pisco Sour, but I am amazed at the confidence with which these mixologist, who now know the spirit, are able to make a variety of drinks," says Loret de Mola. "Traditionally a cocktail made with the spirit, and I see these contemporary bartenders now looking at pisco drinks with a modern twist."Reading a Peruvian pisco labelAlcohol: Must be between 38 and 46 percent by volume. The addition of water is prohibited.

Peruvian pisco is always distilled to proof.


Style: Puro - Made from a single grape variety.


Acholado - Blended from several grapes, usually Quebranta and several aromatic grapes.


Musto Verde - Made frame the distillation of green must, or partially fermented grape juice, this is the smoothest, rarest, and most expensive style.


Grapes: Pisco Puro will indicate the grape variety used. The grapes are broadly classified as aromatic or nonromantic.


Nonaromatic Grapes: Quebranta - A mutation of the Prieta or Negar grape brought by the Spaniards from the Canary Islands. Often imparts chocolate, hay, and phenolic aromas.


Negra Corriente - A rustic and astringent variety known as Criolla in Argentina and Mission in California.


Millar - A larger and sweeter mutation of Quebranta.


Uvina - A small, black grape of Southern Lima, recently added to the approved list.


Aromatic Grapes:


Italia - A table grape valued for pisco for its aromas of tropical fruit, jasmine, pineapple, and roses.


Muscatel - Known as Moscato Rossa in Italy: produces elegant spirits with a sweet, soft aroma.


Torontel - Used to make wine under the name Torrontes: pisco from this grape shows scents of citrus, magnolia, and tropical fruit.


Albilla - Similar to Spain's White Criolla or Alban; creates full bodied, structured, and velvety pisco with delicate aromas and flavors.

Challah (Sabbath Bread)

Following are two Challah recipes, both of which I have made.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Challah must be one of the world's most revered breads. Rich with eggs and butter (or oil, to keep it kosher with a meat based meal), shaped in various braids and coils and often gilded with a sprinkle of poppy seeds, this bread is a Sabbath staple. Though not quite as rich, it's similar to French brioche, and like brioche, it makes a wonderful toast and French toast.

Challah is usually braided; a three strand braid is common, but beautiful foru or six strand braids are almost as popular. It's prepared for the Jewish New Year, Rosh Hashanah; for that occasion, challah is formed into a round coil, symbolizing the continuity of life.

This recipe begins with making a sponge, a quick starter used in recipes that are high in sugar, in order to let the yeast get a head start.

Challah
Yield: 1 loaf, about 16 slices

Sponge:
1 C. all purpose flour
1 C. water
2 tsp. instant yeast (1 envelope from the strip
1/3 C. sugar (I used Splenda)
1/4 C. vegetable oil
2 lg. eggs plus 1 yolk (save 1 egg white for the wash, below)

Dough:
3 1/2 C. all purpose flour
1 3/4 tsp. salt

Wash:
1 egg white
1 tsp. sugar
1 T. water
poppy seeds, opt. (I used black sesame seeds)

To Make The Sponge: Mix the flour, water, and yeast together in a large bowl and let it sit for about 45 minutes.

To Make The Dough: Add the dough ingredients to the starter and mix and knead together - by hand, mixer, or bread machine - until a smooth, supple dough is formed. This dough is a pleasure to work with - smooth and silky, it almost feels as if you're rubbing your hands with lotion. Place the dough in a greased bowl, turning it over once to coat it lightly with oil. Cover and let rise for 1 1/2 hours, or until it has doubled in size.

To Shape The Dough: Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and fold it over once or twice to gently deflate it. Divide the dough into three or four pieces, dependingon what kind of braid you want to make. Roll each piece into a log; if you've got three pieces, roll each to about 24 inches; four four pieces, roll to about 18 inches each. On a lightly greased or parchment lined baking sheet, braid a three or four strand braid.

To Make The Wash: In a small bowl, mix together the reserved egg white, sugar, and water. Brush the loaf with this mixture, reserving some for a second wash. Cover the loaf with lightly greased plastic wrap and let it rise for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until it's almost doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. (I bake my breads at 350). Brush the loaf with the remaining egg wash (this will give the finished loaf a beautiful shiny crust, as well as provide "glue" for the seeds), sprinkle with poppy seeds, if desired, and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the challah is lightly browned. Remove it from the oven and cool completely before slicing.

from: The King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~



Challah

Braided breads are not of Jewish origin, though most challahs for Shabbat, the Jewish Sabbath, are braided. Braided challahs came into popularity sometime during the fifteenth century in Ashkenazic (Central and Eastern European Jewish) communities. There are many customs and traditions surrounding this wonderful bread.

Customarily the "head" or "rosh" of the dough (a small piece of dough about the size of an olive) is separated from the mass after all the ingredients are mixed. This tradition of "taking challah" or "separating challah" is mentioned in the Bible, Numbers 15, and was originally a portion of dough offered to the temple priests. Today a small piece of dough is thrown into the oven and burnt, and the following blessing recited: "Blessed are You, Lord God, King of the Universe, who has sanctified us with His commandments and commanded us to separate challah." Some people save all of the challah offerings gathered throughout the year and burn them just before Passover when they remove all leavened bread from their homes.

The word challah - pronounced with a soft h as in ha-la-means dough and refers specifically to the bread remaining after the small piece was separated from it. (Dough has to be separated only if the bread is made from wheat, barley, maize, spelt, or oats.) Challah is usually eaten on Shabbat and other Jewish festivals, except the eight days of Passover. The custom of sprinkling challah with poppy or sesame seeds symbolizes God's offering manna in the desert. Manna did not fall on the Sabbath, but a double portion fell the day before so there would be plenty for Shabbat.

In the homes of Orthodox Jewish families, two loaves of challah are placed on an embroidered tablecloth. A cloth is placed over the loaves until after the wine is blessed. Knives on the table are covered; knives are not used to cut the challah on Shabbat. Cutting the challah with a knife-a weapon of war-is considered sacrilege.

A blessing is said over the bread, then the challah is broken and passed to each person at the table. One does not hand bread directly to another person but places a piece of bread on a plate, to symbolize that it is not from man that we receive our bread but from the hand of God. The old custom still prevails that bread should be salted just before eating to symbolize the Temple sacrifices and the sweat of sacrifice.

This traditional braided bread, eaten on Jewish Shabbat and holidays, is made from a sponge. For the sponge a few of the ingredients are mixed together without salt, which would inhibit the growth of the yeast, and allowed to rise. The sponge is the consistency of a batter. After the sponge rises, the remaining ingredients are added and the process is finished like regular dough. By creating a sponge and letting it rise, the flavors have more time to develop, and the texture is changed into a smooth, velvety crumb unlike dough made by the regular methods of just mixing, kneading, and baking. It's amazing what that one small sponge can do!

Makes 2 braids.

For the Sponge:
1 scant T. or 1 (1/4 oz.) pkg. active dry yeast
1 C. warm water (110 degrees F.)
1 T. granulated sugar1
1 C. unbleached all purpose flour

In a large mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast in the water to soften. Add the sugar and flour and beat until the mixture is smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for 1 to 12 hours at room temperature. The longer the sponge sits, the more the flavor develops.

For the dough:
3 to 4 C. unbleached all purpose flour
3 T. sugar
1 tsp. salt
2 lg. eggs
1/4 C. vegetable or canola oil

Add 2 cups of the flour, the sugar, salt, eggs, and oil to the sponge. Beat vigorously for 2 minutes. Gradually add the remaining flour 1/4 cup at a time until the dough begins to pull away from the side of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface. Knead, adding flour a little at a time, until the dough is smooth and elastic.

Put the dough in an oiled bowl and turn to coat the entire ball of dough with oil. Cover with a tightly woven towel and let rise until doubled, about one hour.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly oiled work surface and divide in half.

Divide each half into thirds. Shape each piece of dough into a 20" rope.

Working with 3 ropes at a time, lay the ropes side by side. Starting in the center of the ropes, place the right rope over the middle rope (note that the right rope has now become the middle rope), then place the left rope over the middle, the right over the middle, and so on. Continue this process until the ropes are too short to braid. Pinch the ends together and tuck them under. Tuck the ends under the top of the rope also. Carefully lift and place the braid on one side of a large parchment lined or well greased baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining ropes and place on the other side of the baking sheet.

Cover with a towel and let rise for 45 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

For the topping:
1 lg. egg, beaten
1 T. cold water
poppy or sesame seeds, optional

Combine the beaten egg with the cold water and brush on the braids. Let sit 5 minutes and brush the braids again. Sprinkle with poppy or sesame seeds if using.

Bake for 25 minutes until the internal temperature of the bread reaches 190 degrees F. Immediately remove the bread from the baking sheet and place on a rack to cool.

Note: This bread freezes nicely for up to 6 months. To serve, first thaw the bread, then reheat on a baking sheet or directly on the oven rack in a preheated 375 degree F. oven for 7 to 10 minutes.

from: Celebration Breads by Betsy Oppenneer

My notes: 1) The sugar was replaced with Splenda; using about 1/2 the amount as called for 2) Kneading was done in the bowl 3) Cooking spray was used to coat the dough ball 4) I sprayed my cookie sheet with cooking spray and did my braiding on the sheet itself so I wouldn't have to try and move the dough; possibly messing it up. 5) Instead of mixing an egg with water for the topping I poured a little bit of egg beater into a spouted measuring cup, brushed the bread then poured the remaining egg back into the container. After the egg had dried a bit I then used a spray bottle on fine mist and sprayed the dough lightly then sprinkled on the sesame seeds. 8) I have never taken the internal temperature of bread. Never even heard of doing such a thing actually, so I used my normal thump the loaf with my finger to see if it was done.